Final Day in Tokyo

Last Japanese Avocado Toast

Mother and Daughter Sleeping on Airplane

Christmas Decorations on the Singapore Airliner

Cathy in Self-driving Wheel Chair

Click the picture to watch the movie

In our last morning we had breakfast in our room where I ate my last Japanese Avocado Toast - unfortunately it was just that a sliced Avocado on a piece of Toast. Unfortunately it was very unimaginative.

We were being picked by our car service for the trip to Narita Airport at 3pm and had time to go shopping. Cathy saw an Issey Miyake coat that she was interested in and we taxied to the Issey Miyake store in the Ginza and they didn't have it, but suggested another store a half hour taxi ride away might. We jumped into another taxi and went to the store. They had the coat but in the wrong size. It would be impossible to find the right size unfortunately. Surprisingly while there a saw a jacket that I liked and bought it.

After taxiing back to the hotel and gathering our luggage we awaited our driver. Narita is the farther of the two Tokyo Airports so about an hour later we arrived.

Cathy's back was bothering her and we had a long walk to the lounge. I saw an empty wheel chair and suggested she get in it. We were surprised and delighted to see it was a robot wheel chair. It was like a Tesla. You clicked on a computer screen where you want to go and off it takes you. It goes at a walking speed, so I could follow along. If someone steps in front of the chair it stops and lets them go, and then starts moving again. It never hit anyone! It is going to put a lot of wheel chair pushers at airports out of a job. It is a great idea.

We boarded our plane for the flight back. It was a successful trip in spite of worrying about Parsifal and the pain in Cathy's back that will hopefully remedied by her new doctor.

Travel to Tokyo, Trains and 007

 

Gardner raking the moss

Healing Buddha over Kaga

In honor of James Bond

Hairy Crab Tart

Click to watch the Video or the trains at Tokyo Station

We checked out of Beniya and boarded the Shinkansen for the 3 hour trip to Tokyo.

On the ride I was listening to the audio book of the new James Bond book written by Anthony Horowitz. The Ian Fleming Estate hired Anthony to write some more James Bond novels. You might wonder why this is relevant to this trip. If you followed this blog, and you must have or you wouldn't be reading this, you would know I love a Martini before dinner. In this book it is revealed why Bond orders Martinis shaken not stirred. I now know, but I won't reveal it. Read the book, or ask me over a Martini, shaken not stirred, I will explain. It's not what you think.

Once we arrived we were met by a representative of The Four Seasons who escorted us from Tokyo Station to the Hotel. On every trip to Japan on the last night we always stay at the Four Seasons, requesting a room overlooking the train tracks. Tokyo Station is the busiest train station in the world. It is huge. The Four Seasons Hotel is adjacent to it. I always request a room overlooking the tracks. Maybe it is because I never had a train set as a boy, but I love looking down on the constantly moving trains. Click the link above, and you will get a flavor.

Cathy was tired from the trip, and her back hurt so she went for a massage. They only had one available slot so I went to soak in the Onsen, which is surprisingly on the 7th floor. Usually they are in the basement. Synchronicity was in effect as I was assigned locker number 007. James Bond pursues me!

The hotel has a 3 star restaurant and an adjoining bistro overseen by the chef. We decided to eat there, food was excellent. Two crab dishes and Steak Frites.

This is it, the last blog, unless something spectacular happens tomorrow when we leave for Norita Airport and our flight back to Los Angeles.

Its been a great trip.

Hot Springs, Massage and Pat Challenges

View into the library

Inside the Library

Pat: Challenge #1 bench with built in planter

Spectacular view of the Forest and Garden

Framing is everything

Pat: Challenge # 2 Tree Trunk through 4 Shelves

It was cold and rainy at Beniya, but that was perfect. We had no intention of leaving the onsen. We simply wanted to relax, discover and enjoy. Each suite has a private outdoor soaking tub of the natural hot mineral water. It is supposed to cure you of all your aliments. I am not sure of that, but it certainly cures you of feeling chilled.

We awoke, ate breakfast and then went for our first soak in our private hot springs bath. It is outdoors from our room, secluded so we could be naked and not scare anyone. It was partially covered from the rain and was quite a pleasant experience. Since we have a hot tub at home, the main difference is the healing properties of the mineral water as opposed to LA's finest.

It was quite hot but enjoyable. After cooling down we showered and went for our massages. We both thought they were excellent. A good start to the day.

We decided to explore the onsen. It is very architectural and filled with art. It has 3 separate libraries. We found all 3 and enjoyed looking at their art books. Everywhere we went in the onsen, there were windows framing the forest and the garden. I definitely decided Japanese Maples are my favorite tree. I checked on google and it said they can grow in LA. We need to get some, they are beautiful.

The architect used lots of natural wood and was very creative. Two ideas for Pat: The bench with a built in planter, and the tree passing apparently through several shelves.
We returned to our room, rested (from the massage that sounds weird even to me) and prepared to take another healing onsen natural springs soak. Stripped off our clothes (think Yukata) and stepped right in to the hot water.
Showered, cooled off, had some wine and headed to dinner. 

Again they featured Snow Crab and many other courses. The food is excellent but way too much. We have learned to pace ourselves, lesson learned - you don't have to eat everything placed in front of you.

Tomorrow we leave in the morning catching a train to Tokyo for our last full day before returning to LA on Monday. Happily it is a direct train and we don't have to transfer.

8 Minutes and the Click is Ticking

 

Giant statue protecting the city

View from our deck

Female Snow Crab

Cooked rice with Fish

Today was a travel day, but not without stress. One of the unique features of train travel is you can send your luggage ahead to the next hotel and not have to take in on the train. In our case we, we took only a small amount of clothes and stuff with us, the rest was shipped to Tokyo where it will be waiting for us in our hotel room when we arrive. It is all quite efficient.

We were heading by train to Beniya Mukayu an Onsen not far from Kagaonsen, an area with many Japanese onsens. Onsens are are Hot Spring bathing facilities and resorts.

We knew we would have to change trains at 

Tsuruga Station and we only had 8 minutes to find the correct train and board it.










The tickets had been pre-purchased for us and we each had 4 tickets. Before we left Shinmonsen we showed the 8 tickets to the concierges. They rearranged them in all kinds of patterns, and discussed among them selves what tickets needed to be shown at what station. After what was kind of like an Abbott and Costello movie they gave up trying to figure it out. When we arrived at Kyoto station we showed the tickets to the ticket-taker in the ticket booth and he looked at them switched them around and continued fumbling with them. He basically said board the train and figure it out when you transfer. That didn't give us a high degree of confidence anyone knew what to do.
We arrived at Tsurga Station where we needed to transfer within the 8 minutes we had between our train's arrival and new train's departure. It should be said the Japanese trains are ALWAYS on time. They wait for no-one. We got off the train and started running as fast as we could but we really didn't know where in the station we should be heading to. I was hoping to see a station agent I could show the ticket to or at least an electronic sign saying what track we should be on. There was none!
I saw what I was assumed was a conductor walking with his bags (he was in a uniform so I suspected he worked for the railroad). He had all kinds of baggage with him,  going home after his workday was over. He dropped all his Luggage, umbrella and briefcase on the floor when I showed him the tickets and started walking very fast towards a gate. He talked to someone and got us through the gate and pointed us towards an escalator, we ran up the escalator and jumped on the train, hoping it was the right one. We were in the wrong car, but the right train. The train pulled out, we had just made it.
We never would have made it with the assistance of that kind man. This is so typical of the Japanese. They are incredibly helpful and polite. I am sure all his luggage was safe, left in the middle of the terminal. We struggled down the aisle with our luggage and finally found our seats. Whew, we made it within the allotted 8 minutes - barely.

We were met by a representative of Beniya at the station and driven to the Onsen. It seems weird but it really is fun, in the onsen you are given traditional Japanese Yukatas to wear. No one wears western clothing. Everyone is in Japanese drag. The only issue is Yukatas don't have pockets, where do I put my camera, room key and pills?
It was raining but that was all right because we didn't plan to run around, we just wanted to relax. The view from our room of the trees and garden is spectacular. It is cool here and the rooms are well heated, and even the floors are heated. It is quite cozy.
The Onsen's serve incredible meals and since it was Snow Crab season we had a multi-course dinner centered around the Snow Crab. It was excellent. Tomorrow we have nothing planned except massages. Sounds perfect to me.

Oye! We ate and drank too much!

Desserts

Rice Course

Best Steak Ever

Toji Temple

What do you call a bin full of Chop Sticks?

Today was our last full day in Kyoto. Tomorrow we take 2 trains to reach the Benyia Onsen. It will, I am sure provide a respite from Tokyo and Kyoto.

We started the day by going to the Flea Market located at the Ancient and historic Toji Temple. The flea market is huge and jam-packed with people buying and selling. It is very crowded and you have to struggle to work you way through the hoards of people. Cathy and I were also trying to make sure we didn't get separated in the morass of shoppers. 

We spent several hours walking around and in the end didn't buy anything! We saw Samurai swords, dinnerware, clothing, tons of old Kimonos (this is for you Doshi), etc.

We eventually taxied back the hotel and did a preliminary packing. The hotel offers exceptional service. I wanted to get a shave and they recommended a barber about a 15 minute walk from the hotel. When I was ready to leave, one of the young women who worked at the hotel escorted me all the way to the barber shop. It was a like a living breathing Google Map experience but prettier. The shave was exceptional, in fact the best I have ever had. For some reason not only did he trim and shave my face and beard he used the straight razor to shave between my eyebrows and even along the top of my nose and the exterior of my ears. If you are ever have an encounter with a barber with a straight razor in his hand you will quickly learn what I did, don't argue with him! In fact I was in fear of coughing or sneezing as he was shaving me. I must say though that now my face is as smooth as a babies ass.

I walked back to the hotel alone, no living breathing Google Map to escort me. We had cocktails in the hotel bar, and were ready for dinner. Once again the hotel provided us with an escort to guide and walk us to the restaurant: Yonemura. This is a 2-star Michelin Guide Restaurant. We had eaten there 2 previous times. This time we were surprised that the food had become much more elaborate. We liked it on our previous more than this time. The food was excellent, but much of it way to elaborate for our taste. The meal was exhausting and when they brought us first one plate of desserts and then when we finished they brought us each a tray with 6 more desserts. It was overkill of a good thing. One thing for sure: the steak was the best we have ever eaten. The meat was extremely rich and tasty. They serve it with two sauces: A Soy based sauce and surprisingly a Miso based Sauce. They served 2 two different types of steaks, each one about an inch square. No giant t-bones here! We didn't feel like the portion should be bigger it was just perfect, the meat was so rich.

We staggered down the street back to our hotel and fell into bed. Too full but content. 

The tale of Two Masa(s)

Scallops and Mushrooms

Tuna and Avocado

No one knows why James Dean is on the wall

Sarah's Painting of Buddhist Colors (what appears to be a reflection of a light bulb of white down the middle is actually part of the painting)

 

Sarah and Masa

Masa Making us Green Tea

Soon arriving in Los Angeles

The Cafe owner loves Rabbits

Neighborhood Shinto Shrine

Philosopher's Walk

We started the day by walking to an upscale Japanese Jean store quite near the hotel. Let's just say the jeans were too tight. I guess I need to only buy them in LA. They were cool looking however, but not for me.

We taxied to The Philosopher's Walk. We have been there before and it is a must do in Kyoto. The walk leads eventually to a beautiful Buddhist Temple. This would probably be our 3rd walk on it. It was more crowded than we remembered (and longer) so we never made it to the Temple. I am sure our Karma won't be disturbed by half-philosopher's walk.

We then stopped for a Coke at a very cute cafe. The elderly proprietor was one of those people that just radiated good nature and wore a whimsical smile. He also is proud of the rabbit figurines in his rock garden. Perhaps his charm and attitude are because he has to traverse the Philosopher's Walk each day to get to work. Masa would say he chose to be happy. No matter, it is a delight to be around cheerful happy people these days.

It was an easy walk to Robert Yellen's Gallery. He had recently moved his gallery into a new space that used to be a Kimono Showroom. It was a perfect setting for absolutely amazing collection of Japanese Pottery. He is world renowned as an expert on ceramics and pottery. He has lots of amazing ceramics from affordable to way out of our reach museum quality pieces. We don't like decorative objects but like functional art. We saw and fell in love with a fantastic Bizen work that can serve both as a large centerpiece on a table and actually used as platter for food. He is shipping it to us in LA.

We returned to the Simonzen to rest and then headed to Sarah's Studio to see her latest work. Masa had sent me detailed instructions on how to find the Studio. Of course the taxi would have a problem. We shared the directions first with the Hotel Concierge so she could make sure the Taxi driver understood. In addition I shared the email directions directly with the taxi driver.

After a 20 minute taxi ride the driver who spoke no English indicated we were there. We were parked in front of a house that had a child's bike leaning against the railing. I was sure it wasn't an artist studio.

We knew we were not where we should be. The driver insisted we had a arrived at our intended destination. Soon a man drove to the house. He doubled parked, got out of the car and said we were blocking his driveway. I said "I am looking for Masa". He said "I am Masa!" I said "huh!" I said Masa has a wife who is a painter. He said, the painter lives on the next street past this one and has the same address. Then he said he never met the couple but would walk us over to the studio, if the Taxi would just move and so he could park his car (this is typical Japanese behavior: to be so willing and polite to assist someone in need). I am sure he better things to do, but felt an obligation to help us.

We paid the taxi driver who probably thought this is the right Masa and what was all the fuss. He drove off, and this Masa finally parked his car. He then started to walk with us escorting us down the street and then our Masa came running up the street and warmly greeted us. I introduced Masa 1 to Masa 2. They should know each other - they had never met and are both really kind people.

We finally arrived at Sarah's studio where she creates her paintings. She had many works of art on the walls as she was working out new techniques. The last time we saw her work it was completely different. We related to this work and liked it very much. Our Masa, who can be thought of in this tale as either Masa 1 or Masa 2 depending upon your perspective; among other attributes is a Master of The Tea Ceremony. The Tea Ceremony is central in understanding Japanese culture, and is quite important. He prepared tea for Cathy and me to drink. One of the paintings was a series of 5 panels arranged vertically on the wall. It seemed to me us it was like a rainbow but it in the wrong color sequence. Sarah explained it is in the proper Buddhist order. I guess when you reach enlightenment your eyes adjust too. We once saw a similar rainbow like sequence at a show that our friend Doshi created from textiles. She hung hers horizontally not vertically. Either way is nice!

After taking our tea, the four of us departed the studio and drove to a local restaurant they frequent. It is a typical small izakaya (a pub like restaurant serves food and drink). Masa ordered for us: Sake and plate after plate of dishes. Two standouts for us were the Tuna with Avocado (avocados don't grow in Japan I found out) and the Scallops with Mushrooms. It was a wonderful experience once again being out of the typical tourist bubble.

We taxied back to the Shimonzen, (the driver of course got lost) and headed straight to the bar to close out a busy day.

Shopping and Meeting a Friend

Google Translate to the Rescue

Pasta Made with Eel

Fried Young Rice

Our Friend Masa

Andy Warhol, they stole your idea!

Bamboo Entrance by Tanabe Chikuunsai IV

Very buff hunky bad ass Buddha

Packing Ain't us

Your Daily Lost Cab Picture

Today was a day of crowds. We went to Kiyomizu-dera Temple. It is up a long steep hill. We were in Taxi. Multitudes were walking. A veritable sea of people. The taxi driver dropped us up at the top. The sea of people were walking up another hill. It was a straight incline and we could see nothing but heads walking towards the Temple. It is the most popular temple because of its beauty, age and location. We walked for a while and simultaneously both of us independently came to the same conclusion: Lets give this up and go shopping.

We taxied  to a great boutique POJ Studio. Of course the driver got lost. The store had unique handcrafted housewares. We had fun in the shop. In an amazing bit of synchronicity they have just opened a pop-up store in Echo Park right near where we live. They had some very nice items that we will be taking home.

We decided we really wanted a Champagne Bucket and found the perfect one. It is made by hand out of wood. It is made of the same wood that Japanese wooden bathtubs are made. The process is one of those craftsman like ancient traditions that Japan loves. The simple Champagne Bucket becomes not only a functioning item, but a work of art in itself. In addition, by purchasing it an ancient tradition is allowed to continue to the next generation. The craftsman / artist that creates it is named: Nakagawa Mokkogei. Click his name to watch a short video about him and the tradition.

We decided to ship the Bucket back to LA. The saleswoman at the store told us to go to the 7th floor postoffice to ship it. It turns out I had to  pack it my self and fill out all of the stupid customs forms. After a few minutes we both said "Fuck it" and took the damn box and grabbed a taxi back to the hotel. The hotel said they give exceptional service (and they should for what we were paying). So I gave them the open box and said "Please make sure this is sent to us LA". They said "no problem". We gave a sigh of relief.

We then went for a walking tour of the Gion, the ancient part of Kyoto. We walked out the front door escorted by a hotel guide and visited many galleries and shops.

At one gallery we saw the work of: Tanabe Chikuunsai IV. In LA with Pat and Doshi we had been to an exhibit of this artist who weaves bamboo into amazing structures. It was great to be reunited with his fantastic bamboo creations. At another, an open box that was actually an art piece. I felt it was ripoff of Andy Warhol's Brillo Boxes.

We visited many galleries all within easy walking distance of the Hotel. 

Upon returning we connected with a wonderful friend from previous visits to Kyoto: Masa Fujiwara. He  joined us for drinks at the hotel and we planned to meet up with his artist wife Sarah tomorrow to see her latest paintings. We will then join them for dinner.

Dinner was at Obase. This was a great surprise. It is a fusion Japanese / Italian restaurant. They speak absolutely NO English. The only way we could communicate is by using a translate app on our phones. All of the many courses were excellent. They even adjusted Cathy's portions to a moderate serving size. The food was great. I love being so far out of the bubble you can't even hear English! There was no Menu, the courses just arrived and were explained on the app. If I had any questions I used translate on  my phone to ask a question. It is amazing!